We had an epic day lined up for the day following our day off. We intended to climb Too Much Fun, Mystery Bolter, Lost Arrow Spire, Cruel Shoes, and Rain Dance. At the end of the day the schedule was tweaked to Too Much Fun, New York Is Not In The City, Lost Arrow Spire, and Cruel Shoes. We set off from the Flaming Rock trailhead early and were soon on Too Much Fun on the Bumblie Wall. This was a tall moderate and well bolted route. Very well bolted. I ran out of draws and had to skip the last bolt before the anchors. It was a fun route and good warm up for a long day. After finishing Too Much Fun and realizing that Mystery Bolter was in the sun we decided to move a little way up the Bumblie Wall to New York Is Not In The City a fun climb with good holds and two variations. About halfway up the wall if you move right it is 5.9 and if you stay straight on the bolts it is 5.10a.
Beth Ann sending New York Is Not In The City.Photograph by Chuck Bolte.
We climbed it both ways then packed up for the long-ish hike to the Lost Arrow Spire. I have talked to more than a few people about the Classic Route on the Lost Arrow Spire since we have been in Idaho and everyone has oozed that it is a hands down classic.
The Lost Arrow Spire.Photograph by Chuck Bolte.
So, I was expecting fun easy climbing on a unique spire providing great views. It was much more nerve wracking than expected. The start was a scramble up a big easy flake then straight up through a finger crack for about 10 feet. At the top of the finger crack climb straight up a low angle face to a right leading ramp flanked on the upper left with a spotty crack. Traversing up the ramp was exposed and nerve wracking. I could not find much acceptable passive pro placement and did not have cams small enough to fit in some of the crack's weaknesses. So I trudged on placing when I could, but needing more mental protection than I could place. Finally I made it to an easy corner where I built a gear belay behind a large block. Then Beth Ann followed. At the gear belay her consensus was the same, this climb was unnerving. We re-racked the gear, flaked the rope, and pushed on. From the corner traverse left back onto the low angle face of the spire. Initially I climbed too high and missed a left leading crack with good gear placement. I stepped back down and started up the crack in the face placing cams. Finally the crack dwindled away and I placed a final cam then ran it out up the low angle rock to the top. The top of the spire finally offered some relief. It was big and flat. You could walk around, stand up, sit down, whatever, and not feel completely exposed anymore. Beth Ann topped out and we both sighed in relief.
Top of Lost Arrow Spire.Photograph by BA.
Then we scoped out the rappel. A 150 foot drop down the overhanging side of the spire that started with nothing, but air. We lingered at the top longer than we should have getting our nerves in order. Then we went swinging out on the rappel and were finally safely on the ground and back in good spirits.
Beth Ann rappelling Lost Arrow Spire.Photograph by Chuck Bolte.
Our slow ascent and descent set us back far enough that I realized we would not have time to climb Rain Dance on the way out after Cruel Shoes. We still had a long hike to Cruel Shoes on Stripe Rock further out in the valley so we got going. Cruel Shoes was a great climb. Three pitches of low angle friction that you could walk right up.
Cruel Shoes first pitch.Photograph by Chuck Bolte.
Cruel Shoes second pitch.Photograph by Chuck Bolte.
The route provided the relaxation needed to offset the Lost Arrow Spire nerves. We were back on the ground at 8:30 p.m. and hiked fast to get back to the truck before dark. There was definitely no way we were climbing Rain Dance on the way out. We rolled into camp well after 9:30 p.m., ate a late dinner and fell asleep exhausted, but content.
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