Journeys: SEND IT - July 22nd - City of Rocks, ID

Tired from a full day prior, we slept in until 8:00 a.m. and pulled out of camp at 9:00 a.m. We did not have much on the list for today, I primarily wanted to shoot video of the two of us climbing for the home brew documentary. I thought it would be cool to shoot a 5.10 classic, so picked out Tribal Boundaries on the west side of Flaming Rock. We set up all of the cameras and gear and I decided to climb the route once then turn on the cameras and climb it again. Big mistake. I climbed the route, got hurt fingers through the crimping section and decided to not climb it again. Once was enough and I never turned the cameras on. We moved around to the east side of Flaming Rock to climb Rain Dance another two pitch low angle classic. We climbed in the sun enjoy the warmth, because it was a chilly morning. We had a terrible descent as the rope got jammed three times on the way down, the final time it girth hitched itself around a patina plate. Back on the ground we decided that the first pitch would be Beth Ann's first sport lead. She had climbed it once already and I felt like it was time for her to experience lead climbing. She went up it just fine and we got some great video of it all. We decided we would pack up and move up to the Breadloaves to climb our final classic for the day, Intruding Dike, in the Bloody Fingers Corridor. We got video there too. It was so windy though the two tripod mounted cameras are shaking the entire climb. It was a fun climb, definitely the classic everyone makes it out to be. Especially the step over midair before the final 20 feet of climbing.

Beth Ann nearing the top of Intruding Dike.
Photograph by Chuck Bolte.

Once we were done we went down into town to try some Rock City pizza, which was very good. Then it was an early bed time back at camp. Tomorrow we attempt our final classic. Five pitch Sinocranium on Steinfell's Dome.

Journeys: SEND IT - July 21st - City of Rocks, ID

We had an epic day lined up for the day following our day off. We intended to climb Too Much Fun, Mystery Bolter, Lost Arrow Spire, Cruel Shoes, and Rain Dance. At the end of the day the schedule was tweaked to Too Much Fun, New York Is Not In The City, Lost Arrow Spire, and Cruel Shoes. We set off from the Flaming Rock trailhead early and were soon on Too Much Fun on the Bumblie Wall. This was a tall moderate and well bolted route. Very well bolted. I ran out of draws and had to skip the last bolt before the anchors. It was a fun route and good warm up for a long day. After finishing Too Much Fun and realizing that Mystery Bolter was in the sun we decided to move a little way up the Bumblie Wall to New York Is Not In The City a fun climb with good holds and two variations. About halfway up the wall if you move right it is 5.9 and if you stay straight on the bolts it is 5.10a.

Beth Ann sending New York Is Not In The City.
Photograph by Chuck Bolte.

We climbed it both ways then packed up for the long-ish hike to the Lost Arrow Spire. I have talked to more than a few people about the Classic Route on the Lost Arrow Spire since we have been in Idaho and everyone has oozed that it is a hands down classic.

The Lost Arrow Spire.
Photograph by Chuck Bolte.

So, I was expecting fun easy climbing on a unique spire providing great views. It was much more nerve wracking than expected. The start was a scramble up a big easy flake then straight up through a finger crack for about 10 feet. At the top of the finger crack climb straight up a low angle face to a right leading ramp flanked on the upper left with a spotty crack. Traversing up the ramp was exposed and nerve wracking. I could not find much acceptable passive pro placement and did not have cams small enough to fit in some of the crack's weaknesses. So I trudged on placing when I could, but needing more mental protection than I could place. Finally I made it to an easy corner where I built a gear belay behind a large block. Then Beth Ann followed. At the gear belay her consensus was the same, this climb was unnerving. We re-racked the gear, flaked the rope, and pushed on. From the corner traverse left back onto the low angle face of the spire. Initially I climbed too high and missed a left leading crack with good gear placement. I stepped back down and started up the crack in the face placing cams. Finally the crack dwindled away and I placed a final cam then ran it out up the low angle rock to the top. The top of the spire finally offered some relief. It was big and flat. You could walk around, stand up, sit down, whatever, and not feel completely exposed anymore. Beth Ann topped out and we both sighed in relief.

Top of Lost Arrow Spire.
Photograph by BA.

Then we scoped out the rappel. A 150 foot drop down the overhanging side of the spire that started with nothing, but air. We lingered at the top longer than we should have getting our nerves in order. Then we went swinging out on the rappel and were finally safely on the ground and back in good spirits.

Beth Ann rappelling Lost Arrow Spire.
Photograph by Chuck Bolte.

Our slow ascent and descent set us back far enough that I realized we would not have time to climb Rain Dance on the way out after Cruel Shoes. We still had a long hike to Cruel Shoes on Stripe Rock further out in the valley so we got going. Cruel Shoes was a great climb. Three pitches of low angle friction that you could walk right up.

Cruel Shoes first pitch.
Photograph by Chuck Bolte.

Cruel Shoes second pitch.
Photograph by Chuck Bolte.

The route provided the relaxation needed to offset the Lost Arrow Spire nerves. We were back on the ground at 8:30 p.m. and hiked fast to get back to the truck before dark. There was definitely no way we were climbing Rain Dance on the way out. We rolled into camp well after 9:30 p.m., ate a late dinner and fell asleep exhausted, but content.

Journeys: SEND IT - July 20th - City of Rocks, ID

Harry Potter The Deathly Hallows Part II was pretty good.

Journeys: SEND IT - July 19th - City of Rocks, ID

Fortunately Beth Ann's elbow was feeling better this morning so we were able to cast off on another awesome day of rock climbing in City of Rocks. We had lined up some classics in the upper city like, Swiss Cheese, Scream Cheese, Skyline, Window Rock, and Delay of Game. We started late, but stayed in the shade of the west wall of Anteater to climb Swiss Cheese and Scream Cheese. Swiss Cheese had two bolts and minimal gear on the upper half. The holds and moves to the first bolt were solid, but the runout was a little unnerving and a tense way to start the day. Beth Ann followed with no problem. Then we moved over to Scream Cheese, which starts on good holds then turns into a featureless slab climb to the finish. The bottom half did have good holds and the top half was extremely slabby, but not as difficult as the book makes it out to be (reducing climbers to crawling and whimpers). Once we were finished with Scream Cheese we walked a short distance to the Morning Glory Spire for the mega classic route, Skyline. The start was easy enough getting up a blocky pile of boulders. Climbing up just a bit further brings you to an undercling traverse to gain a right leaning crack. The undercling as so many people have said, was much more solid than it looked, but it was still very exciting to have your tail hanging out in the breeze as you traversed. From there it was a very fun and easy climb to the top, following the crack until it disappears then stepping left to a patina face, placing gear in horizontal seams. The view from the top of the Spire was fantastic.

Beth Ann following Skyline.
Photograph by Chuck Bolte.

As we rappelled down from Skyline, I checked out the bolted route next to it, Fall Line, a 5.10b. It looked do-able so we went for it. The bottom half had some interesting moves to gain a slabby ramp then a ledge. Then a few holds up comes a thin horizontal ledge with a reach to the next hold. After the high step/heel hook move you get into steeper small patina holds to the anchors. It was an enjoyable climb.

Beth Ann attempting Fall Line.
Photograph by Chuck Bolte.

Sufficiently pumped from Fall Line, we hike up the trail a ways to window rock where we climbed up the Descent Route to snap a few pictures of the window formation on top of the rock. The sun was getting low in the sky and we decided we would pack out for the day, but climb Delay of Game on the way out. I am not sure if it was that we were tired from a full day of climbing, but Delay of Game was the hardest route we did all day and it had the hardest slab move I have done since we have been in the City. And it was 150 feet off of the ground to boot!

Beth Ann in the window on Window Rock.
Photograph by Chuck Bolte.

Journeys: SEND IT - July 18th - City of Rocks, ID

We got up early so that we would be in the shade for Theater of Shadows on Jackson's Thumb. We set off at the trailhead at 8:30 a.m., but soon found out that we were on the wrong trail. We were on the edge of a shallow gully leading up to the Thumb and Steinfell's Dome and decided to bushwack our way to the base of the Thumb.

Jackson's Thumb (left) and Steinfell's Dome (right).
Photograph by Chuck Bolte.

We were already on a "mini epic" as we have heard so many times during our trip. As we were hiking the gully I glanced to the east to see a group of climbers that had pulled into the parking lot after us now ahead of us and also on the correct trail leading to Steinfell's Dome and Jackson's Thumb. Expectations of an uncrowded climb were quickly deteriorating. We continued hiking the gully, which got steeper and steeper as we neared the base of the Thumb. The Tacoma in the parking lot below grew tinier and tinier. We picked our way over a few boulders and finally we were under a few trees shading the base of the climb. And we were in fact now behind a party of three climbers also climbing Theater of Shadows. So we waited until they were a pitch up and then we started. The climbing was fun and easy. It was low angle with plenty of good foot holds. Hands were only need for balance as we worked up the first pitch.

Beth Ann on Theater of Shadows, Jackson's Thumb.
Photograph by Chuck Bolte.

The second pitch was more of the same, but the view down into the valley was much better now that we were well above the trees. On the third pitch the wind picked up and started howling making communication difficult. The fourth pitch was steeper, but more featured than the lower pitches.

Beth Ann belaying on Theater of Shadows, Jackson's Thumb.
Photograph by Chuck Bolte.

The whole climb was a lot of fun and the satisfaction of sitting on top of the thumb looking down on City of Rocks was awesome. We did one giant double rope rappel off the east side of the Thumb then hiked down the correct trail back to the Tacoma. The hike down was much faster. We decided we would take a long lunch at the visitor's center and hang out in the shade since our climb had taken two hours longer than expected due to poor route finding on my part and climbing behind another party. We relaxed until the sun had shifted far enough into the western sky to climb on the east face of Elephant Rock. We drove back up to the city and unloaded for an attempt at Columbian Crack and Just Say No. Columbian Crack looked like an awesome finger/hand crack from the bottom and it was after a short chimney. Then it turned into a body swallowing monster. I was able to advance a number 3 Camalot for 30 or 40 feet then the crack was too wide, so I left the cam and what do you know, there was a bolt protecting the widest part of the crack. When Beth Ann followed she mentioned that her elbow was bothering her. We decided we would try Just Say No and see how she felt. Just Say No was a fun problem down low then turns into a 40 foot run out on low angle featured rock above the last bolt. This made it an exciting lead and a fun climb. Beth Ann felt up to it and seconded the route capping another epic day in the City.

Journeys: SEND IT - July 17th - City of Rocks, ID

Today was an awesome day. Fearing the weekend crowd we got up and left early for Castle Rock State Park just a few miles from City of Rocks. Our destination was the Hostess Gully on Castle Rock where we could find numerous moderate multi pitch sport routes.

Hostess Gully at Castle Rock State Park.
Photograph by Chuck Bolte.

Hostess Gully did not disappoint. We started on the three pitch Zinger, which got us high off of the ground providing a great view of the valley as well as endless patina plates. We swapped routes with a couple that were also climbing in the Gully; they started Zinger and we went up two pitch Fruit Pie, which had even bigger juggier patina plates. Back on the ground the sun was now on us, but we decided to stick it out since the climbing was so much fun. We hiked further up the Gully to It Takes Two with another minefield of patina all the way up. As we climbed the other couple cleared off of Between Heaven And Earth to the left and I led it while Beth Ann belayed completely spent after It Takes Two.

Beth Ann on It Takes Two.
Photograph by Chuck Bolte.

The sun had been beating down us for the last three hours and we were both exhausted and dried up. The day had flown by as we knocked down the pitches. It was our most complete day yet. We rolled into camp in bonk status needing food fast. Tomorrow we aim for Jackson's Thumb, four sweet pitches of sport climbing.

Cache Peak from Castle Rock.
Photograph by Chuck Bolte.

Journeys: SEND IT - July 16th - City of Rocks, ID

After two days of getting used to City of Rocks, Beth Ann and I decided we needed a day off and drove north to Burley, ID to stock up on supplies. We shopped at WalMart and ate not one, but two fast food meals while blogging and firing off text messages. Around one or two in the afternoon we headed back to City of Rocks where we unsuccessfully tried to boulder up on the high ball beside our campsite.

Journeys: SEND IT - July 15th - City of Rocks, ID

Whatever nerves I had about leading 5.8 trad in the city, I decided would be annihilated today. We rolled out of camp just a bit late, but arrived back at the Breadloaves to tackle Carol's Crack, which had been somewhat crowded the day before. There was another group climbing around on Decadent Wall, but Carol's was open and I did not hesitate to throw myself at the climb. 10 feet up the wide blocky start I thought, what the hell did I just get myself into. The upper half of the route was a beautiful finger crack, but the bottom half was an awkward mess to me. I placed probably bad protection and climbed on pulling up over the blocks to gain the ramp to the finger crack. From there it was a solid piece of fun crack. Although I struggled to relax and enjoy the climb, it protected well and it felt great to climb through to the top.

Beth Ann glad to be finished with Carol's Crack.
Photograph by Chuck Bolte.

This time at the rappel anchors we had no problems borrowing a single rope rappel to get back to the dirt and figure out what to do next. I wanted to do Intruding Dike, but it was taken. We packed up and headed down into the City to see about Bath Rock. Still in the sun we moved on from Bath Rock to Elephant Rock. Elephant Rock was still in the sun, but was free of climbers so we decided to go for it. Check that, there was a couple rappelling from Rye Crisp that needed a second rope which we gladly lent. They returned the favor by letting me borrow a few extra big Camalots for the send. The cams came in very helpful in leading the gaping left facing flake. I think I got greedy and sewed the bottom half up too soon and had to work to place a number 3 higher when a number 4 would have been really handy.

Chuck making moves at the top of Rye Crisp.
Photograph by ???

Beth Ann seconded and overcame a bit of exhaustion to finish the solid 5.8. At the top we ran into Jeremy and Jenny finishing Wheat Thin and we all rappelled down together on mine and Beth Ann's two ropes. The bottom was a bit more crowded than we had left it, but fortunately Wheat Thin was open and we were able to hop right on after a short break. The bottom two thirds were solid fun, a really great climb. Near the top though, the thin crack fades and a large detached right facing block makes a wide flaring crack. I slid a number four in at the bottom and continued to climb looking for protection, but could not find anything worthwhile. So, it ended with a big 30 foot runout with solid holds, but my heart was definitely in my throat. Beth Ann followed and we were soon throwing down our rappel ropes. We needed cash to pay for camping fees, so called it a day and ran down to Almo where we picked up some cash, got some ice cream, and made some quick phone calls before heading back up the mountain. The moon will be full tonight, but I doubt we will be awake to drink in the view.

Journeys: SEND IT - July 14th - City of Rocks, ID

Knowing that the Breadloaves would get morning shade, we returned to them in order to climb some of the "easier" trad routes on Decadent Wall. We started at Pluton Playground a 5.5 with a big flaring crack. It was relatively easy, but hard to protect some of the more flaring parts. After we were both at the top we moved to a crowded set of rappel anchors in the middle of the wall. When the group at the anchors could neither say yes or no to rappelling their fixed rappel rope we waited for another couple to finish climbing and rappelled on their 70m rope. The book says that the rappel is 100 feet, which would usually be fine for a 60m rope, but the other couple let us know that a 60m definitely will not touch the ground. Once on the ground we looked up a clean line called Adolescent Homo Sapien. It was a beautiful climb that protected very well. It even had a somewhat exciting move before a low angle finish. As Beth Ann was following the sun finally started to creep over the west side of the wall and we were soon burning up. This time we rappelled on two of our own ropes as I had snagged one from the truck in between climbs. Of course one of the ropes tied itself an overhand knot on the way down and had to be pulled back up, flaked, and thrown again. As the sun beat down we decided to move back to the Bloody Fingers Corridor where we had started the day before and climb Hough's Crack next to Intruding Dike. Hough's had some awkward moves to it, but ended up being a satisfactory lead.

Beth Ann jamming into Hough's Crack.
Photograph by Chuck Bolte.

As Beth Ann followed dark clouds blew in from the southwest and we decided to head back to camp early to get ready for a storm.

Camp.
Photograph by Chuck Bolte.

Fortunately the storm passed to the south of our campsite and blue skies followed it. We cooked up a hearty pasta dinner and met our new neighbor at campsite 3. I do not recall his name if it was ever given, but he was an older dude that had plenty of beta to pass down to the first timers. He let us know of a couple good routes here and there, but strongly suggested Steinfell's Dome and Jackson's Thumb, crags with multi pitch moderate sport routes. Very tasty treats that would be snacked on after a few more days of trad climbing. At 10:30 no name turned in and we were left with a nearly full moon so bright it cast our shadows and illuminated the Twin Sisters towering behind us.

The Twin Sisters.
Photograph by Chuck Bolte.

Journeys: SEND IT - July 13th - City of Rocks, ID

We woke to a chilly morning in Vedauwoo and although the thought of climbing in Vedauwoo was enticing we hastily departed. Now that it was daylight we were able to take in the wonderful southeast Wyoming landscape.

Vedauwoo the next day, again.
Photograph by Chuck Bolte.

Endless open range with herds or grazing cattle stretched in every direction as we dropped down into Laramie. Two hours into the drive we stopped in Rawlins to wash and vacuum the truck and stretch our legs. Unfortunately the cleanliness would be fleeting. We endured two hail storms between Rawlins and Green River and after a few hours finally crossed the border into Utah. Our drive through Utah was short, but Ogden Canyon was gorgeous. Steep twisting walls covered in green and rock sparked an adventurous spirit. In northern Utah the adventurous mountains mellowed to green velvety humps with expansive valleys. At Snowville we finally turned off of the interstate after two and a half days and were on the straightest two lane I have every seen. We drove this for 50 or 60 miles and came to Malta, ID where we stopped for our final fuel up. We were in the last phase of the cross country drive. 30 miles from City of Rocks we could see the light at the end of the tunnel. Or could we. This entire time I had been expecting to be able to see City of Rocks from tens of miles away. As we passed through 30 miles of crop land I kept begging to see a glimpse of the rock towers, but there was nothing. Finally, not until we had reached the Almo city limit were we able to catch a glimpse of Castle Rock. Even then we could not see City of Rocks until we had turned out of Almo and up over a final hill. It was simply amazing. A rock climbing paradise stretching for miles. Frankly we did not care to find a campsite. It was 5:00 p.m. and we had plenty of time to get in at least one route. We drove straight to the northern end to the Breadloaves, parked the car and hurriedly racked the gear. In the Bloody Fingers Corridor we found ourselves at the bottom of a moderate trad route named Breezeway. It provided just the escape we needed from the truck and standing at the top we drank in the beautiful view topped with a nearly full moon.

Beth Ann topping out on Breezeway.
Photograph by Chuck Bolte.

Beth Ann...flexing?
Photograph by Chuck Bolte.

It was awesome and we could not wait to climb the heck out of it for the next 10 days. The camping situation was worse than the view. Reserving a site online seems to be the only way to do business around this place. We were able to find a site that was not reserved until the 15th so we took it for the night. Exhausted we cooked pasta for dinner, slammed a protein shake, and crawled into the tent. The nearly full moon kept us company as we slumbered content that the long drive was over and the real journey was just beginning.

The moon hangs over City of Rocks.
Photograph by Chuck Bolte.