Monday, August 01, 2011

Journeys: SEND IT - July 31st - Salt Lake City, UT

I woke thinking we would get rained out of our plans to climb the West Slabs of Mount Olympus. Rain was moving in for the afternoon and we got a late start to our climbing day. The approach to the climb started out of a neighborhood between Mill Creek and Big Cottonwood canyons and it was a bear. Gentle dirt switch backs quickly escalated to steep rock scrambling to the base of the route, which looked to be a wide low angle playground.

Looking up the approach gully.
Photograph by Chuck Bolte.

It looks so intimidating from the valley, but is so gentle up close. We broke into two parties; Beth Ann and I in one, Matt and Wendy in the other. Our plan was to climb three pitches then switch to simul-climbing for the much easier upper eight pitches of the climb. The climbing was fun and easy and provided a great view of the city and the entire valley. If I remember correctly we stuck to the middle of the slabs, which had little pro. I did not place a single piece of gear and belayed off suspect looking glue-in bolts.

Wendy and Matt on the first pitch.
Photograph by Chuck Bolte.

As we simul-climbed I worked harder to find pro and keep two pieces of gear between Beth Ann and I. The simul-climbing went quickly and soon enough, we topped out. We all sat down and ate some food while enjoying the view.

Matt looking south-ish.
Photograph by Chuck Bolte.

Then we noticed the rain coming in from the south and decided to get down as fast as we could. We rappelled once down the descent gully on the west ridge then scrambled down the rest of the way. After much downward trudging we were back on the easy dirt trail just as it started to sprinkle. As we pulled away in the car the rain came harder. We were just in time. We stopped at REI then got some pizza on the way home. Perfect. Tomorrow we have two or three trad routes picked out in Big Cottonwood Canyon as long as the rain holds off.

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