Journeys: Middle and South Tetons

It was 3:30 a.m. and I regretted setting my alarm. Or did I? I was tired, but excited for a big day in the Tetons. My goal was the southwest couloir of the Middle Teton. The route was a 3rd class scramble, a steep loose gully with no technical rock climbing. I drove to the Lupine Meadows trail head where I packed my bag, brushed my teeth, and tried to go to the bathroom. I stepped off at 5:00 a.m. I marched on through the darkness illuminated by the cone of light from my head lamp. Other than the occasional distant waterfall the woods were silent.

The sun rose, but cast little light. The air was choked with haze from nearby forest fires. I could see enough to flick my headlamp off. I passed through the boulder field then the Meadow camping area. Some climbers were climbing out of their tents. Others were already on their way up through the Moraine. One climber was ahead of me on the Middle Teton approach trail. I continued up following the other climber. He paused atop a large boulder just ahead of me and gazed out at something then disappeared. I wondered what he had looked at. I reach the top of the boulder then looked out. It was the sun. Constrained to an orange disc in the hazy morning sky. I took a photo.

Hazy sunrise from South Fork of Garnet Canyon.

As I continued the hike I began comparing the South Fork of Garnet Canyon to the North Fork. It seemed like the South Fork had a less established trail and more strenuous boulder hiking.

I reached the saddle between the Middle and South Tetons. I looked at the South Teton and wondered how hard it would be to climb it too. It looked like a walk up. I checked my guidebook, but could not find an entry for the South Teton. I assumed this meant it was a walk up.

I started up the southwest couloir of the Middle Teton. I stuck to the right side at first to climb solid slab instead of the loose dirt and scree in the gut. About half way up I came across a pair of climbers on their descent. I asked about the South Teton. They said it was similar to the climb I was on. Just follow the ridge through a notch and then gain the summit. I also asked about the summit of the Middle Teton. It was hard to tell because there were two summit blocks right next to each other. The true summit was the one on the left they told me. The pair continued their descent. I traversed the gut of the couloir then climbed the slabs on the left side to the summit.

I looked out across the hazy valley. The Grand Teton stood to my left. I traced the Upper Exum Ridge with my eyes remembering last weekend's climb. I looked to my right and took another look at the South Teton. The weather looked good and I decided then that I would go for the South Teton too. I pulled out my camera and tripod and took the best birthday photo for my sister. Ever.

Happy Birthday Beth Ann!

I was descending through the couloir and feeling good. I passed through the saddle and up the ridge of the South Teton. I paused occasionally to look into Idaho and watch other hikers and climbers on different peaks. I scrambled through the steep-ish notch to the summit ridge. I tried to find the actual summit. On the top of one block I found a bolt sticking out of a rock, but not USGS marker. I ended up traversing the entire Teton looking for the marker, but never found it.

I relaxed at the end of the summit ridge and ate some cheese and Triscuits. I watched a pair of climbers on the Ice Cream cone. I spotted a snowfield below me that I thought I could down climb. Might as well put my crampons to work since I packed them all the way up here! The snowfield would shorten the descent and save loads of time.

I reached the end of the final rock rib of the north east face of the South Teton and came to the snowfield. The snow was not bullet proof, but was still firm. I strapped my crampons onto my approach shoes. I was not sure if it would be a good fit. I took a few steps down front pointing then tried to turn pieds a plat, but the plastic on the crampons dug into my ankles above the low top approach shoes. I continued front pointing until the angle of the slope relaxed some more. I could finally walk pieds a plat comfortably. I exited the snowfield and gladly unstrapped the crampons.

I started down the boulder fields of the South Fork toward the Meadow. Descending through the boulders was wrecking my knees. I took a long break at the Meadow to refill my water bottle and take a load off of my knees. I was back on well trod trail and moving fast. I made it back to my truck right at 4:00 p.m. clocking in at 11 hours. I was damn tired, thirsty, and hungry.

I cooked a hearty dinner of Ramen and tuna back at camp then went straight to bed. I needed another alpine start for an attempt on Teewinot the following morning before returning to home in Big Sky.

Dirty dishes and dinosaur spray. Awesome day in the Tetons.